It’s June! How’d that happen?
Anyway, this fabric reminded me of Oreo cookies when I first bought it, so that’s what I’m calling this dress. I based this one on a Diane von Furstenberg dress I saw in the display window of her store in the Meatpacking District.
PATTERN. After the Colette Chantilly dress, I wanted a quick and easy project. Enter Vogue 8379, my go-to wrap dress pattern. I’ve made two other version so far – the “October Issue” and the “Purplue” – but this time decided to go with a more fitted skirt. The knit wrap dress may be my favorite. It’s not only easy to make, but it’s even easier to wear!
I love how the collar looks on one of the DVF dresses so I added the collar piece that comes with the pattern. Wouldn’t it look great in a solid-colored version of this dress?! I also twin-needled the collar to keep the fabric from rolling over, and I think it gives a finished look. I’m not crazy about how I attached it to the dress so I’ll probably add binding next time (the pattern comes with facing pieces, which I omitted. Just not a fan of facings.).
SIZE. Straight size 10. Nice and easy – thank you, knit!
FABRIC. I used about 2 1/2 yards (60″ wide) of this poly blend knit that I bought at Gizmo Sewing Supply** in the East Village. Good ol’ Gizmo. Actually, that’s not the store owner’s name, but I know a cat named Gizmo and, alas, Gizmo it is!
The fabric feels super soft. I don’t know about you, but I never get the press I want with polyester when I use the synthetic setting on my iron (in fact, it ends up not looking pressed at all). To get around this, I’ve been turning the iron up to the cotton setting and then using a cotton press cloth folded over twice. From what I’ve seen this higher heat setting doesn’t damage the polyester and the result is so much nicer. Just don’t make the mistake of pressing without the cotton press cloth. Ask me how I know. Yep, the soft feel of the fabric went hard real fast.
**Gizmo is a small mom-and-pop store and the fabric selection is pretty minimal, but he also sells lots of handy things you need at the last minute – zippers, buttons, snaps, twin needles, the works. Every New York neighborhood should have a Gizmo, if you ask me. Especially for those times when you go to the Garment District to buy a zipper, and then end up coming home with tons of fabric!! No, I am not guilty of that. ;)
NOTIONS. Being the simple project that it is, I only needed twill tape for the shoulders and fusible knit interfacing for the under collar. Yes! The twill tape was basted on first and then serged when I attached the front and back bodices.
I also added a snap tie to keep the inner part of the left wrap in place, both when I sit down and for particularly blustery days (or wind gusts from incoming subway trains!). The snaps are attached to the dress with embroidery thread. I’m actually thinking of adding these to my other wrap dresses too.
- STRAIGHT SKIRT. Since this pattern only comes with the full skirt option I used the skirt pieces from McCall’s 5179, a wrap dress pattern my sister gave me when her friend’s mom was giving away sewing patterns. Passing the baton! I once tried to remove width from V8379’s skirt pieces to create a more fitted skirt, but that landed in Disaster City. Clearly need to work on my drafting skills. In any case, M5179’s side seams are pretty straight and in the future I’m going to add some width to the lower half of the skirt so it hangs a bit better. Also, I accidentally chopped off too much length from the paper pattern and I wasn’t able to go with the just-above-the-knee length I originally intended. Oh well, guess that’s just how the cookie crumbles.
- SLEEVE LENGTH. I fiddled with the sleeve length and I think it looks okay, but I’m wondering if short sleeves would look better. Thoughts? I could even lengthen it slightly by adding bands…
- IN THE FLAT. Andrea of Four Square Wall’s post on sewing in the round vs. in the flat had me thinking. I’ve only sewn sleeves in the flat on the Sewaholic Renfrew since the pattern instructions say to, but Andrea made me realize that I should be doing this on other projects too! And I have to say, it was great. I’ll still be hemming the sleeves in the round since I like the finished look better, but for inserting the sleeves? In the flat all the way!
- TWIN NEEDLE. This is the first version of this dress where I’ve used a twin needle (another Gizmo purchase – Gizmo power!) instead of a single straight stitch to hem the skirt, sleeves, and wrap edges. I really like the look of it. If you’re curious the single straight stitch that I used for the other dresses has still held up, and those dresses get a lot of wear let me tell you!
And that’s a wrap! (sorry) Feels great to have another creation done and done. Not sure how much wear this poly creation will get in the coming months considering our humid New York summers, but I’m never opposed to having something ready for the next season.
Until next time!