Sewin' in the Rain » 1940s

Nina Leen’s Glimpse Into LIFE

Amanda — Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:13:09 +0000

Have you seen these incredible photos by photographer Nina Leen? They’re part of the LIFE photo archive available through Google. Leen starting working for LIFE in 1945 and was one of the first female photographers at the magazine. A friend introduced me to her and her work, and I picked out some of my favorites to share with you today!

First, I just love the photo above. There’s something kind of dream-like about it, I guess. The pose as well as the dress with the shoes and headband are all so cute – enough to intrigue a couple of fellas rowing boats even! Everything about it makes me want to be there. Doesn’t the model kind of remind you of Casey from Elegant Musings?

The page where this is posted (click on each photo to go to the source) notes that this is Washington Square Park, which certainly isn’t so! T’is actually taken by “The Lake” in Central Park. The Beresford – the grand apartment building just above the model’s head – is a clear giveaway, situated quite happily on Central Park West between 81st and 82nd Streets since 1929. :)

There’s something quite classy about this outfit. I’d like to think she’s just left the office for a lunch date with her beau, and here she’s spotted him! The unusual hat looks so natural on her, yet can you imagine the kinds of looks you’d get walking down the street in it today?! The gloves have also become extinct in everyday life. Even though the woman in the background is wearing a coat, the model’s outfit makes me think of a warm summer’s day. I imagine it to be made of cool seersucker, but I have no idea if it really is.

I love the old street lamps, just visible to the left of the model. And good to see that the man on the right is wearing those pants nice and high – I guess my grandfather didn’t coin that look after all. ;)

Doesn’t she look like she’s spotted something great in the distance, whatever it is? Or maybe she’s just extra proud of her outfit and has an extra bounce in her step. I like how the gingham was cut in such a way that the darker checks run horizontally at the waistband; it breaks up the bodice and the skirt nicely. I keep meaning to do something like this! Actually, I love the thought of making the lower part of this dress so that I’d have a high-waisted gingham skirt with waistband. I don’t think I’d wear a dress like this since I wore too many blousey things in the ’90s to go back to it and I just don’t like long sleeves in woven fabrics. The hat is beautiful, though I’d never have the guts to wear it! Easier in those days when everyone wore ‘em. :)

I’m also in love with those Greek Revival row houses, which are located on the north side of Washington Square Park. This group of houses is also known as “the Row” and are still there today. I just think the architecture and the outfits complement each other so well, in all these photographs! Each one enhances the other.

And how about this cute photo? So wonderfully ’40s. It kind of looks like they’re wearing the same outfit with variations at the bodice. I love both head pieces and the gloves class up the outfits. I find the heels interesting; the toe part comes up so high on the foot. Do you ever look at old photos like these and think about what was happening or being said directly before and directly after the shot?

This one in particular is taken in front of the Washington Memorial Arch in, once again, Washington Square Park. A little different from today since it was open to vehicular traffic at that time and remained so until the late ’50s.

I may be a dress-and-skirts kinda gal, but I do appreciate these high-waisted trousers (and what a cute hat!). I still have a similar pair I’d like to get around to sewing, but it’ll be more for the spring since I’d be using light-colored fabric. I like how the model is wearing them with what look to be low wedge shoes; I hemmed my “Seabee” trousers for heels length because I have it in my mind that they look best with a bit of height, but this is a nice option too.

If you’re interested, the model is getting her shoes shined in, once again, Washington Square Park. Apartment buildings along MacDougal Street provide an elegant backdrop.

Hey, it’s a towel dress! How chic and practical. I love the shawl effect of the other towel draped around the model’s shoulder. Do you think this is a dress for the beach or something worn after a dip in the ocean? It doesn’t seem like she’s wearing it over a swimsuit… Regardless, I love the silhouette! It would look great as a summer dress in cotton or the like.

The woman next to her is saying, “How does she manage to look so glamorous in a dress made out of towels? Sheesh!”

Oooo, pretty and so very classy! Very Sofia Loren. I love the pairing of the black portrait blouse with the printed high-waisted pencil skirt. Both of these are available as patterns in Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing, and guess who just sent her red wool garbardine fabric to the dry cleaners for a steam press so it can someday soon become a pencil skirt? I had thought about pressing the fabric myself, but I just don’t have the time and it wasn’t even expensive to have it done for me so there you have it.

Okay, so these are just some of the photos in the LIFE photo archive. Check them out and see what you think! There are tons more to inspire you. But, in the meantime, did you have any particular favorites from the ones I’ve shared today?

In the Navy: My 1940s "Seabee" Trousers

Amanda — Fri, 01 Apr 2011 06:28:00 +0000

Oh, happy day, my high-waisted, wide-leg “Seabee” trousers are finally finished! It all started when I decided to join The Cupcake Goddess‘ Trouser Sew-Along back in January, which finished in February I believe (it’s been awhile). I didn’t do the official sew-along BurdaStyle pattern. Instead I went with a pattern I already had in my stash, the 1940s Empire Waist Trousers from the Decades of Style Pattern Company in Berkeley, CA. She updates vintage patterns from the 1910s to the 1950s, so this pattern is a style that would’ve been sewn up by home seamstresses of the early 1940s! These trousers are so incredibly comfy – I LOVE them!

Please excuse the overcast day. It’s the best we can get around
here lately. (And, I’m freezing!)

I first bought this pattern at the Decades of Style Trunk Show at Sew L.A. in 2009, along with 4 other patterns. This is the first one I’ve made, which is a real surprise to me! I bought this particular pattern more because I figured I’d add a pair of pants to my collection, and figured it’d be ages before I got around to them. That’s where the sew-along came in (thanks Sunni!). Here’s the pattern cover:

As you can see, I lowered the waistline considerably and it’s no longer an empire waist style. I wanted to honor the original design of the pattern, but I have a short torso, and for me to have the top of the trousers end 2″ above my natural waist would’ve looked a bit funny! Sunni had a good idea of adding a belt to the natural waist, I’d love to see a version like that. I just didn’t have the guts. The trousers close with an invisible zipper at center back and there’s a facing only (no waistband).

The hem ends 1″ above the ground and has 2″ cuffs slipstitched to the pant legs. I did all kinds of reading online about where the hem should be on wide leg pants and everyone has a different opinion! Maybe it’s because I’ve done a lot of big city walking, but I wanted the hem up off the ground in the event of rain (and the hem fold really weakens when scuffing the ground all the time).

I’m really pleased with how these came out, being my first pair of trousers and all! I’ve made tons of pajama pants before, which actually helped me with these in terms of construction. I used a navy wool blend I picked up at my local fabric store. It started life as my 3rd muslin, as I was feeling pretty confident in my previous adjustments, but not confident enough to cut into my beautiful sand-colored wool crepe I purchased from Trim Fabrics (I found them through one of Sunni’s posts on online fabric sources). So while the construction could use improvement, and I need to do some adjustments to the fit before I cut out my next pair, I’m so excited I actually have a wearable pair of pants! Whoop-dee-do.

Adjustments I made included lowering the waistline, as I mentioned, and eliminating the darts on both the front and the back. First I tried shortening them since they were creating a bubbling effect at the end, but that didn’t work out so well. Then I found a thread on PatternReview (can’t remember where exactly) where someone mentioned darts aren’t always necessary on pants, depending on your shape. To compensate I brought in the side seams at the waist. The zipper opening is long, so I shortened it considerably so I wouldn’t be sitting on a zipper.

I also gained a good understanding of crotch depth versus crotch length thanks to Sunni’s highly informative sew-along posts. Really, the work and know-how she put into each post was amazing! So, going with that, I ended up raising the crotch depth 1″ and slightly altered the crotch length. To be honest, I didn’t quite understand the concept of crotch length until I finished making these, so going forward on another pair I will work on that a little more. The fit isn’t bad, but I know it can be better!

I think that’s about it for alterations. I did add a Bemberg rayon lining (the pattern is unlined) and, boy, do they feel so smooth and luxurious! This is my first time working with this fabric and even though it’s tricky and slippery it sure is worth it! I wanted a lining because of the wool material, but also because the garment hangs better with it (and, bonus, the silky smooth feel!).

As for the name, I decided to call these my “Seabee” Trousers because they were influenced by my grandfather’s World War II U.S. Seabee uniform. The Seabees make up the construction battalion (CB!) in the Navy, and I couldn’t help but pair my new trousers with his pullover top and sailor’s cap. I can’t believe I kind of fit in this top! It has the coolest details on it. I don’t know where his pants have gone off to, so I loved recreating the outfit (even if the colors don’t match!).

My patriotic self, all ready to build a battleship…out of Legos.

The real deal: My grandpa in the South Pacific, WWII.

All in all, I really loved this pattern (even though I didn’t do justice to the empire waist)! Once you get the fit down, sewing up pants is really straightforward. I have a lot of fun walking in these as the wide leg really sways nicely at the hem. I usually don’t like wearing pants, but the way these fall kind of remind me of wearing a dress! The wool was easy to work with, but I definitely don’t want to be caught singin’ in the rain with them; when I was pressing the fabric it smelled like wet dog, but that’s just the nature of the material when it confronts moisture (and I was relieved when Handmade Jane smelled the same thing!).

Oh, and these trousers were submitted as part of the Sew Weekly’s theme challenge this week: tackling UFOs (unfinished objects)! Thanks to the Sew Weekly for getting me to actually stop procrastinating and finish these uber comfy pair of swank trousers!

My sailor’s cap and “Seabee” trousers!

And, of course, I wouldn’t have even thought of making this pattern if it wasn’t for Sunni’s sew-along. So I close by saying, thank YOU, Cupcake Goddess! :)